Dining Review: Hourglass Tavern
Mrs. Sideras wears an apron and amicably chats with people who pause outside the restaurant. Don't be surprised if upon leaving she hugs you and plants a kiss on your cheek. Her husband lugs sidewalk signs out front when the restaurant opens, describes the dishes on his handwritten menu with enthusiasm ("How is it? It's beautiful!") and helps the long-time upstairs waitress serve diners.
It's more than just homey hospitality that keeps patrons returning to the Hourglass Tavern. Portions are monstrous and prices are miniscule. This one-of-a-kind, easy to miss nook near the corner of Ninth Avenue, with only six or seven tables on each of two levels, has a lived-in look. Art covers every wall. There's bric-a-brac galore, everything from nutcrackers to elephants. Every inch of back mirrored shelves is taken by mementoes gathered over the 34 years of the restaurants existence. There are candles and flowers on every table. A dinner companion observed, "If I were a tourist and found this cute little place, I'd congratulate myself for discovering a restaurant where the real New Yorkers eat."
Warm loaves of bread and maybe a minced vegetable, phyllo dough stuffed, in a spunky red sauce, greets diners. They can order a glass of beer for as little as $3.50, a hefty glass of wine for $4 and a bottle for $16. Most main courses come with a choice of mixed green salad or a bowl (not a cup) of soup. There are six two-course meals priced at $15.75. (Almost everything on the multi-paged menu is listed as "tonight's special.")
Beginnings and endings - that is, appetizers and homemade desserts - are most noteworthy at The Hourglass Tavern. Regulars seem to know about two off-the-menu starters: warm, plump, grilled shrimp over salad and smoked salmon draped over greens. The rustic, filling soup of the day was a good cannelloni bean and vegetable brew. Desserts are house made and gargantuan: sturdy tiramisu, dense chocolate cake, towering apple-pear pie and a terrific mixed fruit cobbler that fills a soup bowl.
The best entree sampled was five, bite-sized, gilled lamb chops. They were tiny, tender and knowingly seasoned.
373 W. 46th St. btw. Eighth & Ninth Aves., 212-265-2060, www.hourglasstavern.com
New York City Activities
More Articles
Dine Like a New Yorker: Why Redeye Grill & Brooklyn Diner USA are Two of the Best Restaurants in Midtown NYC
Experience the best of NYC dining at Redeye Grill & Brooklyn Diner USA on 57th St. Enjoy top-notch cuisine & ambience near at these restaurants near Carnegie Hall in Midtown Manhattan.
Where to Eat When Visiting Manhattan’s Museum Mile
Explore a diverse range of dining experiences near Manhattan's Museum Mile, from international cuisines like Austrian and Greek to classic Italian and French options.
Best Late Night Desserts in NYC
From iconic cannolis at Caffe Palermo in Little Italy to nostalgic desserts at Empire Diner, there are great places all around NYC when that late-night sweet tooth starts to tingle. Read on for great shakes, cakes, cookies, and more in the wee hours.
Utsav Introduces New Bengali Menu
Utsav, a woman-owned restaurant in the Theater District, has been serving a dynamic combination of Chinese and Indian cuisine now for more than 23 years. They've recently introduced a Bengali menu.
Stroller Tours: Feminist Photography at Brooklyn Museum on 5/22/24
Wednesday, May 22, 2024 10–11:15 am Elizabeth A. Sackler Center for Feminist Art, 4th Floor
Architecture of Light: From St. Peter’s Basilica to Three Modernist Spaces at Saint Peter's Church on 5/21/24
Inspired by Marco Anelli’s photo installation of St. Peter's Basilica (Vatican City) at Saint Peter’
A Woman of a Certain Rage at Caveat on 5/21/24
TITLE: WOMAN OF A CERTAIN RAGE: one woman show (75 minute runtime) LOGLINE: A romp, a rant, a bl
City Manager's 10 Mile Race to Remember at Boardwalk at Laurelton Blvd on 5/26/24
CITY MANAGER’S 10 MILE RACE TO REMEMBER Those Who Made The Supreme Sacrifice Dedicated to the mem