We say potato and they say patata. Either way, it is a tapas winner at Andanada, a new Spanish restaurant on the Upper West Side. Patata Andanadas is a bowl of tiny roasted potatoes served on a bed of “earth,” made of ground roasted and toasted black olives. Dip each patata into the garlicky mayo sauce or spicy salsa brava, then back into the “earth” and pop it into your mouth for a culinary treat. 

Andanada is the Spanish word for the highest seats at the bullfight arena. Ironically, the restaurant is a few steps below ground level with a long bar area and a garden room in back. Owner/partner Alvaro Reinoso, from a winemaking family in northern Spain, presents a formidable Spanish wine list. The kitchen is under the direction of award-winning chef Manuel Berganza, who recently prepared a Spanish wine lover’s dinner at the James Beard House.  

There are a few select entrées of meat and fish as well as four variations on paella, but the focus here is tapas, which can be shared. Choices include the delicious and tender Albondigas en Mojo de Cilantro Y Mojo—meatballs made from a flavorful blend of oxtail and pork served with cilantro and garlic picon sauces. Slow-cooked pork loin is ground and shaped into Croquetas de Jamon, dusted with bread crumbs, fried and served with béchamel dipping sauce. A dessert you don’t want to miss is Arooz con Leche, a creamy rice pudding with tapioca and cinnamon ice cream under a tent of lighter than air flash-fried, sugar-dusted rice paper. Gorgeous and delicious!

Lunch Monday to Friday, 11am to 3pm; dinner Monday to Thursday and Sunday, 5pm to midnight, until 2am on Friday and Saturday; weekend brunch 11am to 3pm. -- Marian Betancourt